An often asked question we get is, what’s the best way to clean and paint my bell? Sandblasting? Pressure washing? Sandpaper? Wire wheel? And what’s the best way to paint my bell? Brush the paint on or spray it on? The answer is, probably none of the above.
If the overall objective is to protect the bell, make it pleasingly presentable while keeping it original, try this: Clean your bell with Dawn Power Wash. Yep! Dawn! Dawn liquid detergent in the spray bottle works best. It is relatively easy to apply, cuts through oil, dirt, and all growing matter without destroying the original paint or the patina that takes years to develop.
Spray the Dawn on your bell and all components spreading it evenly over all surfaces. Let it soak in for a couple hours or so then give your bell and all it’s parts a really good scrubbing with a kitchen scrubbing pad like you’d use on a skillet. The time and effort is worth it. You’ll be amazed. Most all foreign matter is removed and most importantly, what’s left of the original paint and patina remain. The patina protects the bell from oxidation.
If you have scale, heavy rust or accumulated sediment on your bell try using a flat steel scraper. If it’s especially difficult a chisel and hammer may be necessary. Please consider not using abrasives such as sand blasting, pressure washing or the other methods mentioned above, you will destroy the patina and the original paint that remains.
If the original paint is faded rub on new paint with a heavy cloth rag. Use the paint sparingly, don’t over do it. Rub, rub, rub. The extra effort is worth it to get an original, burnished look. Spray paint is easy to apply but it makes the bell look new and you loose that sought after aged finish. Brushing the paint on results in thick coats that detract from an ultra thin burnished finish.
C. S. Bell used three paint colors on their bells. Flat black, silver and golden bronze. Flat black was the most commonly used color especially during the early years. Until the 1960s or so most all post mounted farm bells, being The #62, #1, #2 and #3, were painted black. #4 bells and some #20 and larger bells were also painted flat black. From the late 1890s on silver was the color of choice for church and school bell bowls and components.
During the war years most all of the Navy bells cast for the three allied naval forces were golden bronze. In the 1940s, 50s & 60s golden bronze was also the color of choice on the largest church bell’s 40 inches and up to the granddaddy of all cast iron bells the #54. 54 inches in diameter the #54 bell bowl alone weighed in at 2,060 pounds was the largest production cast iron bell made. Total weight of the #54 bell, yoke, uprights and other components was 3,150 pounds!
From 1970 thru 1990 golden bronze was used on the C. S. Bell #3 post mount bell & the replica U. S. Navy invasion bell. During the same time period Belknap Hardware of Louisville Kentucky sold post mount bels with golden bronze bell bowls and flat black components.
As far as matching C. S. Bell paint colors, off the shelf flat black is a color that is consistent and easy to come by. Matching the silver C. S. Bell paint is relatively easy. Rustoleum aluminum color paint in a can is about as close as you can get and does a good job. Golden bronze is a different story. Their is no off the shelf paint to match it. It must be custom made. The best results can be achieved by mixing 4 parts oil based gold leaf with one part oil based antique bronze. Mix the paint well and rub it in with a heavy cloth rag for best results.
If you’re into detailing, highlight the lettering on silver bells and components with a coat of black magic marker or black paint. Use white finger nail polish or white paint on the lettering of golden bronze bells, black bells and black components. After it drys rub the lettering with #000 steel wool so you can just make out what it says.
Annual maintenance is rubbing in a light coat of oil. Spray penetrating oil is fine. Don’t forget to spray for wasps. They seem to love living on the inside bells.
Looking for information or advice for your bell? Post 6-8 wide shot photos with closeups of all letters & numbers and we’ll see what we can do.
We are often asked ‘what’s the best way to display or show my bell and why can’t I get my bell to hang level? It wants to tilt forward, backwards, sideways, any way but straight! And why won’t the clapper strike the bell straight on? It hardly rings! What’s the problem”?
The problem is weight and gravity. And before we get into this topic any deeper we want to issue a general safety warning!
Warning! Warning! Warning!
Bells are heavy and unforgiving! The heavier they are, the more unforgiving they become!
Ever wonder why there seems to be so many broken farm, church and school bells on eBay & Marketplace with broken or missing parts? Weight and Gravity!
Bells are typically hung high on a post, in a belfry or at the highest point of a building. To get them to ring we normally pull on a rope to swing the bell causing the clapper to impact the lower part of the bell on the sound bow ring.
Swinging the bell generates a substantial amount of centrifugal force causing the bell to eventually shake loose of the bolts holding it down.
Thunderstorms, lightning, straight-line winds and tornadoes are notorious for shaking bells loose from their perch in the church so to speak.
So with safety first in mind let’s tackle this problem.
When new bells left the C S Bell Co manufacturing plant the yoke was firmly attached to the bell with a large head bolt. The head bolt was tightened to the yoke with the bell hanging freely below.
As the head bolt is tightened it draws the bell bowl firmly to the yoke as gravity helps it to hang straight. The number of the bell on the crown of the bell was in alignment with the number on the yoke, and the clapper struck the bell at 90 degrees.
Fast forward to today. If you must reseat your bell to the yoke, repeat the process above. Align the bell on the yoke as you tighten the head bolt so that the bell number on the crown of the bell is aligned with the number on the yoke and the clapper strikes the bell at 90 degrees.
Presentation detail can take your bell from worst to first.
It is critical that you tighten the head bolt so that the clapper is aligned to strike the bell at a 90 degree angle. Often times it can be difficult to tighten the head bolt while the bell is suspended keeping the numbers and clapper in alignment. Either a third arm or a good friend may be the answer although more practical might be a plumber’s wrench used to reach up under sinks to tighten water lines. It can hold the head bolt, or in the case of large bells the clapper spring assembly, in alignment from below as you tighten things up.
It is important that you get solid iron to iron contact between yoke and the bell. The use of rubber or nylon washers between the bell and yoke in an attempt to tighten the yoke and bell on a bench is futile in that the weight of the bell will eventually destroy anything weaker than Crystal Metal cast iron. You’ll end up with a flopping bell that reeks disaster.
With post mount bells you can hold the upright in a suitable vice or bolt it to a workbench straight and level. You can then place the yoke and bell into the upright such that it hangs freely with the eyebolt still loose enough to allow gravity to help ‘seat’ your bell.
Tighten the eye bolt as you keep the number on the crown of the bell in alignment with the number on the yoke and the clapper swinging at 90 degrees to the yoke.
It’s now time to mount your bell on the post. You may want to attach the upright to the treated post before it gets planted in the ground, it’s a lot easier. Don’t even think about using lag screws. Use the heaviest bolts and the largest flat washers with lock washers on both sides. As the wood softens over time the lock washers will expand maintaining a tight fit.
Regarding post mount bells, #62, #1 and #2 bells are best mounted on a 10’ treated 4×4 buried 30 – 36 inches deep with concrete mix in the base. A #3 is best mounted on a 10’ treated 4×6 buried 30-36” in concrete mix. A 10’ post should keep your bell up and out of harm’s way.
On larger bells, bolt your uprights to suitable treated timbers. 20” to 30” bells require a treated 4×4 base. 32” and 36” 4×6, 38” up to 48” (2,280 pounds) require 6×6 timbers. The largest bell C. S. Bell made was the number 54. At 54 inches in diameter the total assembly weighed in at 3,150 pounds requiring 8×8 timbers.
The schematic below list the bell number with required corresponding accoutrements and space required.
Please note the drawing below of the church/school bell on uprights bolted to timbers. Imagine 4x4s stacked under each side of the bell taking the weight off of it as you tighten the head bolt drawing the bell to the yoke with gravity doing it’s balancing act. Use a strap or rope to attach the yoke to the uprights in a balanced position as you draw the bell to the yoke.
Once the weight of the bell is off the blocks align the numbers on the bell and yoke maintaining the clapper alignment at 90 degrees and tighten that baby down. Don’t be afraid to tighten it till you think it will snap and it still won’t be too tight. Double nut and you’re good to go.
Now that you’ve mounted your bell it’s time to display it. The majority of post mount bells are presented in a practical location given the situation. Church and school bells were most often mounted above the top of the front of the building either in a nondescript way as part of the building or in a belfry raised above the roofline.
No serious campanologist would want to leave a church or school bell out in the weather.
Large bells are worthy of at least a simple belfry with a lightning rod. Keeping your C. S. Bell covered doubles the intrinsic attraction and protects the bell from the elements. The benefit to cost ratio is through the roof.
For example, a 32” bell in average condition can be purchased for $2,500 -/+. Refurbished as described in “cleaning and painting my C. S. Bell, $3,000. Mounted in a suitable belfry with a lightning rod and a couple simple solar lights and the value goes to $ 4-5,000.
The intrinsic value of a large bell lies in the eye of the beholder. Give them something that creates value for them. While doing so you’ll achieve your goal of helping preserve a pertinent part of our past for hundreds, if not thousands of years to come.
So what’s your story? Post 6 photos of your C. S. Bell product showing all letters and numbers and we’ll see what we can do to help date, repair and/or value your piece. Look carefully for single letters of the alphabet upside down or sideways (lazy style). These are maker’s marks and can also help date your product.
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